Tokyo, Kyoto, Ine and Beyond: My Family’s Journey Through Japan’s Culture, Food, and Hidden Corners
Japan had been sitting at the top of our travel bucket list for years. This spring break, we finally made it happen - spending 12 unforgettable days exploring Tokyo, Kyoto, the countryside, and the coast. From the rush of the cities to the quiet beauty of cherry blossom season, the trip lived up to every expectation… and then some.
In a city as sprawling and hyper-energetic as Tokyo, proximity matters. After a nightmare 2.5 hours of standing in the immigration line at Narita Airport and navigating the hour-long ride on the Narita Express into Shibuya, we arrived at All Day Place Shibuya, our home base for four nights. Next time, we agreed, we’d fly into Haneda - closer, simpler - but after a late arrival and feeling exhausted, the hotel’s casual pizza restaurant and lively coffee shop/craft beer bar on the ground floor felt like a welcome landing pad. The rooms were modest but thoughtfully sized, with easy access to Shibuya Station, allowing us to explore the city and retreat back to recharge in between adventures, especially useful during those inevitable first days of jet lag.
Wandering Shibuya and Finding Cats in a Café
With our body clocks still somewhere over the Pacific, we woke early on our first morning in Tokyo and wandered out into Shibuya’s world-famous Scramble Crossing, where hundreds of people criss-cross from all directions, even at 7:30am. We visited Hachikō, the faithful dog immortalized in bronze outside the station, and then found refuge, pretzel croissants and great coffee at The City Bakery, one of the few places open before 10 a.m. Right across the street we discovered Mega Don Quijote, a technicolor labyrinth of every imaginable consumer good: beauty and skincare, clothing, luxury goods, home appliances, groceries, electronics, snacks, and souvenirs. Among its chaotic offerings: a dizzying variety of Kit Kats, a national obsession tied to the phrase kitto katsu, meaning “surely win” in Japanese, making the chocolate a popular good luck gift.
Like any city, Tokyo rewards wandering. We stumbled across a cat café right in the middle of Shibuya, which unlike some of the other animal cafés, didn’t require a reservation. Within five minutes, we were paying to be ignored by a dozen cats - a truly authentic feline experience.
Lunch was a revelation at Uobei Sushi, where plates of fresh sushi zipped down the conveyor belt. This felt quintessentially Japanese: futuristic, fast, and so delicious, especially at ¥150 ($1) a plate. Later, we crossed the city to Daikanyama, a neighborhood of leafy streets, designer boutiques, and the beautifully curated Tsutaya T-Site bookstore, a temple to design and literature. We ended the day with grilled skewers and cold beer along the lantern-lit alleys of Omoide Yokocho ("Memory Lane"), a rare corner of Tokyo near Shinjuku station that still feels preserved from the postwar years.
Tokyo's Rainy Day Plan: Ramen and Design
When rain sank our cherry blossom plans at Inokashira Park the next morning, we pivoted to 21_21 Design Sight, a striking concrete museum co-founded by fashion designer Issey Miyake and designed by Tadao Ando. The featured exhibition, The Art of the Ramen Bowl, explored Japan’s relationship with ramen as both craft and culture, with beautifully designed bowls by contemporary artists.
Nearby, the high-end shopping center Tokyo Midtown offered shelter and and indulgences. I paid ¥3,000 (around $30) for a single, out of this world strawberry, a luxury cultivar emblematic of Japan’s appreciation for artisanal food production. After lunch at a bustling udon shop and some browsing at Muji and Uniqlo, both way superior to their Western counterparts, we closed the day with a dinner to remember at Rangitoto, a Franco-Japanese restaurant with New Zealand wines owned by a British chef friend and Roux Scholar Trevor Blyth. Our 10-year-old daughter tackled her first seven-course tasting menu like a boss.
Light, Water, and Digital Wonder
On our final day in Tokyo, we headed to Odaiba, a futuristic waterfront district where gleaming malls and leisure parks sit on reclaimed land. After brunching at Bills, the Sydney transplant famous for its airy ricotta pancakes, we walked to teamLab Planets, a sensory art installation that completely blew our minds. We waded barefoot through glowing pools of water where digital koi scattered on contact, while the mirrored halls, floating orchids, and immersive light displays made the whole experience feel like a dream. Tickets are limited and should be booked in advance.
We spent the afternoon at Miyashita Park, a modern shopping and dining complex built over a train line, with a rooftop garden, skatepark, and some excellent restaurants and shops; good for gifts, snacks, and fashion. It’s also a great example of how Tokyo builds public space in creative ways, even in the middle of the city. That night we attended a delightfully chaotic sumo dinner show that was hilarious and ridiculous, with mock matches and audience participation - definitely not authentic but so much fun.
Crossing the Country: Bullet Trains and Bento
The next morning, we braved the crowds at Tsukiji Outer Market, where stalls selling grilled seafood (giant crab legs and scallops), sashimi (melt-in-your-mouth tuna), and tamagoyaki (rolled omelet) competed for attention amid a crush of visitors. The food was worth the chaos, but the crowds quickly became too much, so after sampling just enough, we retreated to Tokyo Station to catch the Shinkansen to Kyoto.
Of course no bullet train trip is complete without ekiben, or train station bento boxes, but Tokyo Station’s iconic Ekibenya Matsuri proved more stressful than charming with hoards of travelers and underwhelming options. Happily, we found better bento at a much quieter store closer to the Shinkansen gates proving that sometimes the lesser-known spots win out over the hype. Once aboard the bullet train the journey to Kyoto was fast, efficient, and surprisingly relaxing. We ate our bento boxes and watched as the scenery shifted from sprawling city to open countryside, with the occasional glimpse of Mount Fuji along the way.
In Kyoto, we checked into the Hiyori Stay Hotel, where the warm and welcoming staff, our spacious room, complete with washing machine, and a pancake machine at breakfast immediately won our hearts. That evening, we reunited with friends from L.A. and wandered the atmospheric alleys of Pontocho, culminating in shameless singing at Share Happiness, a karaoke bar that more than lived up to its name.
E-Bikes, Geishas, and Grilled Chicken
The next day, we rented e-bikes, which proved an easy, fun and effective way to get around Kyoto. We rode to Gion, Kyoto’s historic geisha district, where cherry blossoms framed the temple grounds in soft pink and white, adding even more magic to the already atmospheric streets. Even amid tourist crowds, the traditional wooden architecture and quiet side streets retained their charm. We indulged in sugar-covered strawberries, matcha ice cream, and the most divine pastry creations at Apple Pie Lab. A calming tea ceremony offered a reflective pause before we biked onward to Fushimi Inari Taisha, home of the iconic orange torii gates. That night, we splurged at Yakitori Tachibana, a Michelin-starred restaurant where skewers of chicken were elevated to an art form. We politely declined the raw chicken sashimi course but relished every perfectly charred bite.
A Softer Side of Kyoto
The next morning brought a quick farewell to our California friends, more cycling, and stop at the hip Ace Hotel for coffee with an old friend and expat who swapped the UK for Japan almost two decades ago. Onto a noodle-making class followed by a warming bowl of deliciously satisfying ramen (Kyoto was freezing). We explored the spectacular Daimaru Department Store Food Hall, a glistening showcase of Japanese culinary excellence before moving to the Riverside Arashiyama Hotel, which wasn’t our favorite. Here we avoided the crowds by setting off super early to explore Arashiyama’s main sights, the Bamboo Grove and Tenryu-ji Temple and later that night tucked into rich, delicious wagyu in various ways at Wagyu Donburi-ya Nikuni, a tiny restaurant that was big on beef.
Finding Magic Off the Beaten Path
Plans to drive north to Ine, a remote fishing village, were derailed by our lack of an international driver’s license (an easy but frustratingly stupid oversight). Instead, we took a local train to Amanohashidate and a bus to Ine, where after three hours of traveling, time seemed to slow. Traditional boat houses lined the waterfront, mountains encircled the bay, and seagulls swooped down to snatch crackers from our hands during a short boat ride, leaving us with a quiet sense of magic.
We stayed at Acchan Fisherman’s Inn, a simple yet luxurious and beautiful ryokan with panoramic bay views at what was undoubtedly the best stay of our entire trip. Dinner was a parade of freshly fished sashimi, grilled fish, tempura, miso with local clams, and delicate side dishes, and then another feast at breakfast. Ine felt like discovering a secret - one I’m only reluctantly sharing. We did not want to leave.
From Seaside Villages to Urban Skylines
Instead of pushing onward to Nara to visit with the famously tame deer, we spent a relaxed morning exploring Amanohashidate’s hilltop amusement park and biking across its sandbar before returning to Kyoto for a final night near the station, where we soaked in an onsen and prepared to re-enter the world.
The next morning, we boarded the bullet train to Yokohama, then a local train to Kamakura, a breezy, laid-back beach town with deep historical roots. After a comforting lunch of katsu sandos at Katsuretsu-An, we visited the Great Buddha of Kamakura, standing serene and powerful since the 13th century.
We stayed at The Bird Hotel, a minimalist spot near the beach, and traded our indulgent stay with kaiseiki dinner at Kamakura Cocon for a simpler European-style menu highlighting seasonal vegetables, which had been somewhat of a rarity on our trip.
A Playful Farewell
With our final day reshuffled due to our lack of a car, we skipped the Outdoor Museum and Pirate Ship excursion in Hakone and instead explored Yokohama, spending a few hours at Cosmoworld, a city-center amusement park best known for its giant illuminated Ferris wheel. It wasn’t the cultural send-off we had envisioned, but it was fun.
After a final conveyor belt sushi lunch, we caught the Narita Express back to the airport, closing a journey full of discovery, detours, and small moments that will stay with us long after our suitcases are unpacked.
Before You Go
Customs and Immigration: Register on the Visit Japan Web to generate your customs and immigration QR codes, which streamline your arrival process at the airport.
Transportation: Download the Shinkansen app to book bullet train tickets easily. Reservations can often be changed without penalty.
Car Rentals: If you plan to drive, get an international driver’s permit before you leave.
Mobile Payments: Add a Suica, PASMO, or ICOCA card to your Apple Wallet to ride transit and make purchases using Apple Pay.
Taxi Services: Download the GO app, Japan’s version of Uber. You’ll need to set it up once you’re in the country.
Translation Apps: Google Translate is essential for voice translation, while Papago works well for translating signs and menus via your phone’s camera.
Phone Connectivity: Purchase a Japanese eSIM through a service like Airalo. Public Wi-Fi is widely available, but having reliable mobile data is invaluable for navigation and translation.
Cash: Credit cards are increasingly accepted, but cash remains king for many transactions, particularly outside major cities. Apple Pay is rarely used.
Tipping: There is no tipping culture in Japan. Exceptional service is standard and gratuities are not expected, and may even cause confusion or offence.
Hotel Amenities: Most hotels provide pajamas, slippers, toothbrushes, razors, and hair accessories as part of their standard offerings so pack light.
