Belize: Jungle Ruins, Hidden Waterfalls, and Beachfront Bliss

When our planned summer vacation to South America didn’t happen, we were in a pinch. Where could we fly last minute that was direct and easy and somewhere we had never been to before? Belize! We’re not scuba divers and overtly touristy spots are not really our jam either so we decided to skip the busier islands like Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker in favor of something quieter and more immersive on the main land. And what we got was an unforgettable mix of ruins, rivers, reef, and culture.

Traveling to Belize in August — technically the off-season — turned out to be perfect timing. The weather was warm and mostly sunny, with the occasional quick afternoon rain shower that never disrupted our plans. Everywhere felt quieter, more relaxed, and less crowded, and I was able to negotiate great rates on our accommodation.

We flew directly from LAX into Belize City with Alaska Airlines and picked up a rental car, which gave us the freedom to explore at our own pace. Our Jeep wasn’t exactly fresh off the lot – at least a decade old, rusty in places, and all the warnings glowing brightly. “Not to worry,” beamed the friendly lady at the counter. And off we set.

Our first stop: San Ignacio, where we spent four nights at Villa Massis, a small jungle retreat just outside of town. The place couldn’t have been more perfect. The grounds are lush and green, tucked into the edge of the forest, with a sparkling pool that made it hard to leave. Our two-bedroom, two-bath unit felt brand new — spacious, comfortable, and spotless. But what really made it special were the hosts, Larry, Mel, and Lucy, who welcomed us with warmth, incredible food (A delicious homecooked dinner waiting for us after a late arrival? Yes, please!), and a wealth of local knowledge. Larry literally wrote the book on Belize, and his tips helped us make the most of every day.

San Ignacio is an ideal base for exploring the heart of Belize’s Maya heritage. At nearby Xunantunich, we climbed centuries-old stone pyramids once used for ceremonies and royal life. A day-trip to the ATM Caves offered something deeper – both physically and culturally – as we waded and swam through underground chambers where pottery, tools, and human remains (eek) offered glimpses into ancient Maya spiritual rituals. It’s not for the faint of heart and some of our tour companions did struggle, but it’s an unforgettable experience.

We also hiked out to the magical Black Rock Falls and found ourselves completely alone in the jungle, the sounds of parrots and howler monkeys echoing in the trees. Back in town, the colorful San Ignacio Farmers Market was buzzing with life: stalls overflowing with perfectly ripe tropical fruit, fresh coconuts, homemade tamales, and local dishes like stewed chicken with rice and beans, Belize’s unofficial national dish.

One day, we crossed into Guatemala for a guided trip to Tikal, one of the largest and most important Maya cities. The friendly lady at the car rental place had given us a phone number for a local taxi driver, who met us across the border (you’re not allowed to take rental cars across), and drove us to the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here towering temples rose out of the jungle, and the sheer scale of the ruins – combined with the sounds of the rainforest – made it feel like stepping into another world. Afterward, we had lunch, followed by a swim in the lake in the colorful island town of Flores, before heading back across the border.

From San Ignacio, we headed south on the scenic Hummingbird Highway — a winding road that cuts through the Maya Mountains, passing citrus groves, misty hills, tiny villages, and lush rainforest. En route we stopped for a fun zip-lining adventure at Bocawina before settling into the beach town of Hopkins. This part of the country has strong Garifuna roots – descendants of Afro-Caribbean people who’ve preserved their language, music, and cuisine for generations. We ate hudut (a coconut fish stew served with mashed plantains), biked through the quiet sandy streets, and listened to drumming at our resort one evening over cocktails. It’s a town that feels lived-in and real, definitely not dressed up for tourists.

We stayed at Jaguar Reef Resort in a spacious two-bedroom villa with a full kitchen and a small private dipping pool that was more like a hot tub. We snorkeled around the nearby cayes, did a day trip to Placencia to hang out at the Beach Club, and generally soaked up the rhythm of coastal life, which was utter bliss. On our last morning, it was a quick two-hour drive back to Belize City Airport and just a few hours later we were back in California.

Belize turned out to be exactly what we were looking for: adventurous, laid-back, and full of culture, history, and flavor. We’d go back in a heartbeat.

Check out my Belize holiday reel on Instagram.