THE RISE OF THE VEGAN MEAT SUBSTITUTES
Concerns over sustainability as well as lifestyle choices have fueled the growth of alternative protein providers – from steals created from animal cells, to no-fish seafood and vegan eggs. I profiled some of the leading players for UK-based hospitality publication MCA Insight
Eating meat is a part of everyday life for many Americans. After all, the hamburger is the national dish. In 2018 Americans were set to eat more meat than ever before, with the average consumer eating 222.2 pounds (100.8 kilos) of red meat and poultry, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, surpassing a record set in 2004.
But in recent times there is also a growing movement of people who are making a different choice when it comes to fulfilling their protein needs: by turning to meat-free alternatives. And for good reason: The United Nations says raising animals for food is one of the major causes of global warming and air and water pollution. A paper published in Science earlier this year, revealed that animal farming takes up 83% of the world’s agricultural land, but delivers only 18% of our calories. Meanwhile, research published in the journal Nature last month, found that huge reductions in meat-eating are essential, warning that beef consumption in the West needs to fall by 90% to avoid dangerous levels of climate change. What’s more is that with the world’s population set to grow to 9.7 billion by 2050, experts are concerned about food production being able to meet the increased demand.
Americans are catching on: a 2017 GlobalData study found that the number of US diners who identify as vegan increased by 600% - from 1% to 6% of the US population - between 2014 and 2017. And according to market analysts Mintel, two thirds (66%) of Americans believe that plant-based proteins are healthier than red meat. Brands like Impossible, which is selling its Impossible Burger in 3,000 restaurants in the US, and Beyond Meat, whose burger patty is available at Whole Foods nationwide, have been making inroads into the mainstream.
But when it comes to alternative proteins, consumers are starting to look for more than just meat-free burgers and restaurants now have a number of new plant-based protein categories to add to their menus. Data from market research firm The NPD Group shows that the number of cases of plant-based proteins shipped from foodservice distributors to independent restaurants or small chains has grown by almost a fifth (19%) in the year ending in March, compared with the same period year ago.
While it’s still predominantly beef alternatives – and mostly burgers – other meat-less products such as meatballs, sausages and chicken are quickly catching up. There is even a growing number of no-fish seafood and shellfish options, as well as vegan eggs. Below is a round up of some of the biggest players in the alternative protein sector.
UPSIDE FOODS (FORMERLY MEMPHIS MEATS)
This company from San Francisco grows beef, chicken and duck meat with animal cells and petri dishes, no livestock required. It has received investment from high-profile entrepreneurs such as Bill Gates and Sir Richard Branson, as well as Tyson Foods, the world's second largest processor and marketer of chicken, beef and pork. Upside Foods’ product is unlike any vegan protein product currently on the market because it is actually real meat. It is not made from wheat gluten or vegetables but grown via cellular agriculture: from a sample of animal cells that eventually mature into real animal muscle. Upside Foods released the world’s first alternative meatball in February 2016 and the world’s first alternative poultry in March 2017. “We’re making meat that is better for animals and that at scale uses significantly less land, water, energy and food inputs. Our process will produce less waste and dramatically fewer greenhouse gas emissions,” the company says.
JUST
Formerly known as Hampton Creek, Just Inc., from San Francisco, makes plant-based products with a focus on egg alternatives. It is most famous for its egg-less mayonnaise, Just Mayo, which is available in supermarkets across the US, as well as egg-less cookie dough and dressings. This year the company finally launched the product is has been promising for six years: a plant-based alternative to liquid eggs, as well as an alternative-egg patty. Made primarily from mung beans, Just Egg scrambles like an egg and is coloured with turmeric to mimic the colouring of real eggs. The new product, which is free of egg, dairy, and cholesterol but high in protein, is sold in grocery stores across the country, with a 12-oz bottle that's the equivalent of roughly half a dozen of eggs, priced $7.99 (£6.25). It's also been accepted into Amazon Launchpad, which means it could soon be sold on Amazon Fresh. The product has started to appear at a number of restaurants, including Boston-based Clover Food Lab, which serves a Just Egg sandwich with seared bell peppers and caramelized onions in a pita; and California-based vegan chain Veggie Grill, which has an all-day breakfast burrito using Just Egg on its menu. Just Egg is starting to roll out in select cities in Asia right hopes to be able to launch in the UK and Europe. “We recently signed an agreement in principle with one of the largest egg producers and distributors in the world to bring Just Egg to the European market,” a spokesman says.
OCEAN HUGGER FOODS
This company from New York has made a splash in the restaurant and food service sector with its plant-based alternative for raw sushi: Ahimi. The idea for the product first began at the Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo, where James Corwell saw two football-field sized warehouses full of tuna sold in one morning. Corwell, one of only 60 certified Master Chefs in the US, questioned how such quantities could be sustainable and quickly realised that they’re not. He started working on something that could make a difference to the world’s oceans. The result is Ahimi, a plant-based alternative to raw tuna, for use in dishes including sashimi, nigiri, poke, tartare and ceviche. Ahimi is made from fresh tomatoes, soya sauce, filtered water, sugar and sesame oil. Launched onto the market in November 2017, Ahimi is currently sold in approximately 50 Whole Foods stores across the US, in college and corporate cafeterias run by food service contractors Aramark and Bon Appetit Management Company, including the offices of Twitter, and in independent restaurants in the US and Canada. Ocean Hugger is also working on an eel alternative made with eggplant and a salmon alternative made with carrots.
OTHER SEAFOOD ALTERNATIVES
Crab cakes and fish: St. Louis-based Hungry Planet offers the Match Meats line which includes plant-based crab cakes and fish made with soy and wheat proteins.
Tuna: Good Catch plans to launch a foodservice line that will include fish-free tuna made from beans and legumes with an algae oil from seaweed giving an “ocean flavour” and adding omega-3.
Poke: Canadian fast-casual vegan chain Copper Branch is launching in the US, with a New York City opening in November. It is developing a poke bowl using smoked watermelon, which looks and tastes like salmon.
Shellfish: Sophie’s Kitchen has a seafood line that includes plant-based prawns made with konjac, a starchy root from Asia, and pea and potato starch. And San Francisco-based New Wave Foods is developing a line of plant- and seaplant-based shrimp alternatives, made with algae oil and pea protein.